The day started with an explanation of data on sourcing; where fabric, knitwear, dresses, etc. are being produced and why. I was surprised that Bangladesh is such a major player and that it is actually cheaper to have garment factories there than in China. The rise of fast fashion and the increasing number of seasons (no longer just Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer collections) has enabled some Eastern European countries (Romania, Bulgaria, Poland, Serbia, Macedonia) to get involved because of their proximity to European fashion centers.
Next we heard from Kalpona Akter, a former garment factory worker from Bangladesh who was blacklisted because of her involvement with union organizing. She is now an activist for improved working conditions, fair wages, and unions for the Bangladeshi workers. She believes consumers are the strongest force for change- as in, we should expect ethical practices from the companies who make our clothes and we should make them aware that we care.
On quite another side of the continuum, Paul Wright from the Wal Mart/ASDA brand George spoke on the company's policies for sourcing and its goals for more ethical and environmentally friendly practices. The organizers of the conference did a great job of showing all sides of the problem and it was heartening to hear that even Wal Mart/ASDA is aware of some of these ethical issues. Right now, George is working on reducing the number of factories with which it does business in order to ensure that those factories are properly audited and organized to handle orders without abusing workers.
Ruth Bergen then spoke about the state of homeworkers on behalf of Homeworkers Worldwide-Ethical Trading Initiative. She explained that there are probably over a million homeworkers, usually women, who do things like machine-sew garments, embroider, and sew the tongues and tops of shoes in their own homes to allow them to have other jobs and/or take care of children. I had no idea this population existed, which only confirms one of the main problems they suffer- their invisibility. Many retailers do not even know they are employing homeworkers because much of their work is subcontracted. Companies are also reluctant to discuss the issues involved with homeworkers and would rather drop their part of production then work out the problems, which leads to unemployment for those millions of women.
Representatives from the fair trade fashion retailer People Tree and Kate Fletcher, author of Ethical Sourcing and Systems Thinking, followed and then we broke into groups for a quick workshop. At the final panel discussion, one of the speakers brought up the point that the time for change is really going to come from here on out. Once the buzz word "green fashion" is out of the media, people can really concentrate on creating solutions that are more than superficial. Kate Fletcher emphasized the need for change at different speeds and in different directions; that superficial change may be needed, but a more profound deep-rooted cultural change is also necessary.
We, as consumers as much as people involved directly in the fashion industry, need to think about the throw-away mindset that has been attached to fashion and trend. Brands will always attract the majority of people through the design of the clothing, but we should be more proactive in voicing our concerns to the companies that we support through our spending. OK, off my high horse...
So my first taste of London was exciting. As I walked back to the train station, I got that city-at-night rush. People coming back from work, going out to eat, grabbing drinks, jogging, going about their lives...I love it. Can't wait to go back there with sister Caitlin in April!
sounds fun gits!
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